The Bandsaw
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The Bandsaw is a versatile machine
The bandsaw is one of the most versatile machines in the shop. It can cut curves, it can rip, crosscut, resaw, and it can cut joints. It can also cut sides of beef with ease, so if you see bits of meat clinging to the wheels in these photographs, it's because that's what I've been doing lately. However, the bandsaw cannot make as smooth a cut as a table saw, because a table saw has a stiffer, thicker blade that stays straighter in the cut. A bandsaw blade must bend around its wheels, so it can also bend in the cut. It is a welded ribbon of steel. Because the two ends are difficult to weld exactly in line and the weld itself produces a raised surface on the blade, the blade pulses, both forward and back and sideways, when moving at high speed. This pulsing makes the cut uneven. Still, because the depth of cut is greater and the blade is narrower, a band- saw can do things a table saw can't. It's best for cutting curves and for resawing wide stock with minimal waste.
Installing the blade - Some people spend a lot of time installing a blade, going back and forth over the adjustments, really making it more trouble than it has to be. The trick is in doing things in the right order. First unplug the saw, loosen the tension on the upper wheel and back off all the blade guides; this way you can slip the blade easily around the wheels (make sure the teeth are going in the right direction) and concentrate on tensioning and tracking without the guides getting in the way. Tension the blade by turning the tensioning knob that spreads the two bandsaw wheels apart. Most bandsaws have a tensioning gauge that shows the proper tension for each blade width (the wider the blade, the greater the tension). If your saw doesn't have a tensioning gauge, you'll have to develop a feel; some people pluck the blade like a guitar string and seem to know by the sound when the tension is right. Too much tension and the blade can break, too little and it will wander in the cut. When you've tensioned the blade enough to keep it on the wheels, track it. Tracking is done by turning a knob that tilts the axis of the upper wheel, which makes the blade move back and forth on the rubber rim. Rotate the upper wheel with one hand and as the blade coasts, adjust the tracking knob with the other hand until the blade rides in the middle of the rim. Finish tensioning the blade and test-track it again by hand. Now close the doors, plug in the saw, and test at higher speeds by bumping the motor on and off before letting it run continuously. If the blade runs true, you can proceed; if not you have to stop the blade (here's where a foot brake is a time- saver) or let the blade coast to a stop before opening the doors and retracking by hand. Never track the blade or open the door with the blade running at high speed. If the blade slips off or breaks, you want those doors between you and it. With the blade tensioned and tracked, square the table to the blade; then you can adjust the blade guides.
 | JET - JWBS-14DX 14'' BANDSAW (2 PCS 14" Deluxe Woodworking Bandsaw Features a rigid one-piece welded stand which requires no assembly 1-1/4HP motor is totally enclosed and fan-cooled for long life Completely prewired, feat.. |
 | JET - JWBS-14CS, 14'' Clsd Stand Bndsw, 1HP, 1Ph, 115/230V 14" Bandsaws Closed stand models feature a rigid one-piece welded stand which requires no assembly The open stand model features a wide stance 16 gauge steel stand All motors are total.. |
 | POWERMATIC - PWBS-14CS, POW 14'' WW Bandsaw w. stand (2Pc) 14CS 14" Woodworking Bandsaw 60 watt halogen lamp built into the body, providing direct light on blade and workpiece while cutting Chip blower ensures a clean, visible cut line E.. |
 | JET - WBS-14OS BANDSAW W/OPEN STAND Wide stance 16 gauge steel stand Motor is totally enclosed and fan-cooled for long life Completely prewired with a unique quick connect motor-to-switch plug for easy setup Upper b.. |
